Le Marin, Martinique
On May 16 we motored down from Portsmouth, Dominica to
Le Marin, Martinique. We anchored in our favorite spot just inside the bay
past the point that hosts the resort that used to be Club Med. The French
islands are finally catching up with their neighbors; we were delighted to see
that a nearby hill had sprouted an antenna, and were especially delighted when
it delivered an exceptionally strong wifi signal. We indulged ourselves in
glorious isolation in our little corner for 5 days, finally pulling free to move
down to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, on May 21.
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Locals practicing on an old-style boat with little keel or built-in ballast; so they perch on poles for counterweight
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St. Lucia
Here we caught up with Steve (Receta) and
without too much effort talked him into joining us for dinner at the new Indian
restaurant A Taste of India which is in the new mall in Rodney Bay. Also
joining us were Morgan (Nirvana) and Lee and Sharon (Tranquility).
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Fruit vendor in Rodney Bay still sporting his distinctive style
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We moved in to the IGY Marina in order to equalize the
house batteries and ended up staying a number of days, taking advantage of the
low cost ($.70 per foot) and non-rolly conditions to remove and rebuild the
Energy Transfer Device (ETD) of our Sea Recovery watermaker, which had
stopped working while underway from Le Marin. One of the
bolts on the unit broke while I was disassembling, and despite exhaustive efforts
I could not find aboard the spare bolt that I was certain I had purchased on the
occasion of the last bolt-break. So after replacing an obviously ruptured seal
late Saturday afternoon, I reassembled the ETD and set it aside, hoping to be
able to find a replacement bolt on the following Tuesday; Monday being their
Whit Monday holiday.
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So glad to be up out of the engine room with the watermaker ETD that he forgot to remove the headlamp
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"Vision" talked us (Barb) into hiring him to wax the hull up to the caprails
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Meanwhile, Ann (Receta) returned from visiting her father in the States,
so the four of us did some "comparison shopping" and had dinner at the other
(and well-established) Indian restaurant Razmataz.
The local host of the VHF morning net conducts a
trivia contest each Saturday morning. The question of the week was to guess how
many steps there are on the stairs up to the Customs office. The three closest
answers then qualified for an extended set of questions in one of three
categories. Barb qualified. The three categories were "colors ","potpourri",
"names". The lady with the closest guess chose "colors", Barb chose "potpourri",
and the hapless third contestant got stuck with "names". At the end of the set
of questions, Barb and "colors" had each missed one, and Mr. Hapless was out. To
break the tie, the host asked a question and the first to answer correctly would
be the winner. Barb and "colors" both jumped on "bamboo" as the favorite food of
pandas, so the tie continued. The second tie-breaker was "type of tree that
loses its leaves every year". Barb was judged the winner, but friends told us
later that "colors" had actually gotten in first with the correct answer, but
since "colors" was in the bay and we were in the marina, and since their radio
was in need of repair and ours was stronger, the host had not heard "colors"
answer. And so it was that Barb won a complete dinner for two at the restaurant
"Delirious". The meal was delicious, and we didn’t even feel guilty about the
nature of the victory. Or at least this writer did not.
Tuesday morning I went shopping for the bolt. No luck:
neither the Island Water World nor Johnson Hardware had what I needed. Resigned
to waiting until we arrived in Grenada, where a phone call had confirmed the
existence of the bolt at Budget Marine, we decided to move on down the island.
Barb went up to Customs (15 steps!) to purchase a mooring permit for the Pitons
while I put away the many tools that had been scattered throughout the boat from
my project. Guess what I found in an obscure compartment of one of my tool
chests. The extra bolt. We left for the Pitons anyway, where the view was as
magnificent as ever, and the conditions a bit too rolly for reinstallation of
the ETD.
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Companions on our trip south
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Barb readies the mooring lines as we approach the Pitons
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Cletus is our favorite "boat boy" at the Pitons; we always try to buy some fruit
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Gros Piton
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Up on the ridge the units of the exclusive Ladera resort are visible
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New condos have sprouted along the waterfront between the Pitons
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Tusen Takk II under Petit Piton (file photo from another year)
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Bequia, St. Vincent
We left for Bequia the next morning (May 30), arriving
mid-afternoon in the throes of a tremendous squall that made it impossible to
read the waters and find a sandy spot in which to set the anchor. Even in the
best of conditions, Bequia is one of the most problematical of places in the
eastern Caribbean for setting an anchor. This time, it took us only three
attempts in slightly different locations to get the anchor to hold. We ended up
nestled up just to the port of Receta. Which was fine, except that when
the winds reverted to their prevailing easterly direction, we found ourselves
positioned an unseemly distance directly in front of them. But we had tested our
holding and were well set, so we contented ourselves with shortening the anchor
chain a bit, an action that did not prevent Steve from teasing that if we would
just turn up the volume a bit, they could watch videos on TV with us. Ever a forgiving and
tolerant sort, they even had us over for Ann’s fabulous lambi (conch) pizza one
night. Barb contributed a delicious double-layer pineapple/mango/rum cake.
Marilyn and Martin (Rocking Horse), new but wonderfully congenial
friends, also came.
Conditions in the bay were eventually smooth enough to
permit more work in the engine room, arthritis not withstanding. Turns out I
probably should have changed all of the seals (rather than just the one that was
obviously ruptured), because after re-installing the ETD, a time-consuming and
frustrating chore, the watermaker is now working but not optimally. One
day soon I must take the damn thing out and thoroughly rebuild it. Soon.
Um, real soon. Maybe in the next quiet bay. Or the one after that. But, soon.
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As we left Bequia we noticed that traditional housing is creeping from the left up to the unconventional Moon Hole residential area
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Chatham Bay, Union Island, St. Vincent
On June 4 we took the short hop down to lovely Chatham
Bay, Union Island. Sandy anchor-friendly bottom with patches of grass that
provide feed for the many resident sea turtles. High hills to the north, east
and south. Long stretch of fine clean sandy shore, above which are a few "rasta"
huts that call themselves restaurants and bars, one of which is awkwardly-named
"Sun and Beach and Eat", but hosted by friendly Vanessa and Cletus (Seckie).
Vanessa or Seckie often "patrol" the bay in their dinghy, waiting to greet new
arrivals and issue invitations to come in for drinks and/or the evening BBQ. We
know Vanessa by name, and she recognizes us and our boat and came to greet us
when we arrived. Several days later, we accepted her invitation and were later
transported by Seckie to shore where we joined three other groups of cruisers
for dinner. Nice folks, good food, generous portions. We recommend them.
The waters in the bay remained smooth for our entire
stay; it takes a distinctly northern swell for that not to be true. But the bay
is also notorious for its gusts of wind, and we certainly experienced that while
there. Instantaneous transitions from 5 knots to 35 can be shocking and
unsettling. But the puffs are fairly brief; that is why they are called gusts, I
guess.
(The massive tri-hull pictured below is Pilar Rossi.
You can read about her at
http://www.superyachttimes.com/yachts/details/1761.)
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Sunset at Chatham Bay
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"Sun and Beach and Eat" bar/restaurant
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Barb shot this as we arrived for the evening BBQ
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This strange ...
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... massive ...
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... tri-hull shared the anchorage with us
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When this boat entered the bay, it was steered by using a noisy bow thruster. Barb was so amused she had to document the vessel as we left
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On June 8 we rounded the corner and headed back north
to Salt Whistle Bay at Mayreau. We expected the 5-mile trip to be horrible; in
fact it was quite tolerable. And why head back north? To attend a pig roast! But
to read our account of that event you must wait for the next exciting installment of
"Barb and Chuck go cruising".