Grenada:  June 24-July 8, 2012

Click on the above thumbnail for a map during this time period

Grenada -- Port Louis Marina

A portion of our last posting:

The slips with American-style power were all occupied when we arrived (at Port Louis Marina), so we had to tie up to a slip that only features European-style power:  220 single-phase volts at 50 cycles per second.  So we are paying for a slip at which we must still run our generator daily; we are getting water but no power from shore.  After an informative phone call to a Maxwell winch representative, I set about getting to the winch motor.  The winch housing was stuck fast to the deck.  As I laboriously loosened the housing, I was met by more bad news:  oil dripping down from under the casing.  Obviously, there was a leaking seal someplace.  When I finally got the casing loose and turned on its side, I got additional bad news:  in setting the casing on its side I had apparently over-stressed one of the bolts that serve as electrical terminal posts on the motor.  It broke off in its hole.

As this is written the motor has been repaired by Mike of Palm Tree Marine at Le Phare Bleu.  ... Meanwhile, we await arrival of a seal kit and a bearing kit from Defender.  The Expedited International FedEx charges exceed the cost of the parts, but we are anxious to get away from the slip and back to anchoring.

Pictures from last time:

Loosening the caulk that sealed the casing to the deck

Oops! Oil on the other side of that caulk!

Mounting bolts and electrical connections are hard to reach -- even with the casing turned on its side

The site of the broken terminal post

View from Port Louis tower.


Windlass Repair -- Continued

The seal kit and the bearings kit eventually arrived, and we eventually succeeded in getting them out of FedEx and onto the boat.  There was a several-day delay because Port Louis Marina kept assuring us that the package would be delivered to them.  When Barb finally went to the FedEx office to pick up the package, she was told that they never deliver to the Marina.  Someone was a bit confused.  

Anyway, the heavy windlass was schlepped to the cockpit and disassembled; the seals and bearings were replaced, and the windlass was re-assembled with hardly any extra pieces left over.  Several coats of paint on the casing later, the windlass was in place and ready for testing.  It worked!  (Even a blind pig can find a truffle now and again!)

Attaching the power cables back to the motor

Final coat of paint

Final tightening of bolts after the caulk has set a bit

While we were "stuck" in Port Louis Marina, we sampled some of the local food fare.  Found delicious Rasta (i.e. vegetarian) soup across from us on Lagoon Road and had "takeout" several times.   Yummy.

If you eagerly arrive early, you have to wait for the soup to be transferred from car to stand

Now we are almost in business!

We also patronized the bakery on the driveway into the Marina.  They have many delicious goodies, and on Fridays from 11 am to 1 pm serve hamburgers that are to die for.

Check those checks!

We "never" write checks.  That is what Barb told the bank when she called them about the deduction of $8,183 from our account.  She had been catching up with our finances using Quicken when she discovered the entry.  Additional conversation with the bank soon revealed that there were two other checks for more reasonable amounts:  $15 and $30.  Then the light dawned:  the reasonable checks had been written for mooring fees in the National Park at St. John in the USVI back in March when we had trouble finding the right change for the mooring fee envelope.  What was the check number of the "unreasonable" check"?  #8183.  Ah hah!   Some wingnut had entered the check number for the check amount (three months after they received the check).  It has all been straightened out now -- the National Park Service even got their corrected amount of $37.50.   And Barb feels smug about catching the error the day it happened by using Quicken -- an operation of which I have always been skeptical.   Why bother to reconcile accounts?  Banks never make mistakes!

Wedding Bells Afloat

A few days before our departure we had first-class seats to a wedding about to happen.  The trimaran on the dock just in front of us was hosting, and many folks had pitched in to help decorate the short section of dock and its ramp.  We expected to get photos of the ceremony itself, but it turned out the vows were taken out at sea.

Busily decorating dock and ramp

Ramp to be soon used by arriving guests and the bridal party

As an un-invited kibitzer, this is the best I could do for a picture of the bride

Guess which person will officiate in the ceremony

Small pan band played before and after the wedding cruise

Here comes the new bride as the boat returns to its berth

Of course the partying continued after the boat came back

St. George beach

On June 30 we finally broke free from Port Louis Marina.  Barb wanted to try something different, so instead of zipping right down to Hog Island, we anchored off the beach at Ross Point, just around the corner from St. George's, in among a number of other fools.  Strong word, that?   Not if your idea of a pleasant evening is one relatively free of a pitching deck.  We each spent an absolutely miserable night trying to sleep on our lurching bed.   Landlubbers, picture this: just as you are about to doze off, someone lifts up the side of your bed.  Repeatedly. Restful, no?  Next morning, bright and early, we fled to the quiet waters of Hog Island.

Hog Island

Local friends Dwight and Stevie have been stopping by for a chat and some snacks each afternoon as they return from spear fishing and lambi (conch) hunting.  One day they gifted us with a sea cat (octopus).  The next day Barb was cooking it, using Ann Vanderhoof's recipe, called "Steve's Creole Chatrou", p. 402, from her book "The Spice Necklace" (, when the guys arrived.  Soon it was done, and we each had a helping.  Mmmmm.  Really really good.

Ever wonder why we continue to cruise the Caribbean year after year?   It is simple, really.  We love the sights, the sounds, the interactions, and yes, the tastes of the Caribbean.   How many landlubbers can cook up a mess of Creole Chatrou?

Dwight and Stevie show off one of their catches

It is unanimous: Creole Chatrou is good!

After trying two other Hog Island locations, we finally settled near the abandoned Cuban concrete boats ...

...where even when it rains the sun shines!

July 4 at Clarke's Court Marina

And speaking of interactions, the area in and around the southern part of Grenada abounds with opportunities for interactions with other cruisers.  Case in point:  the July 4th celebration at Clarke's Court Marina.  Hamburgers and hot dogs and french fries cooked by the Marina, and desserts and side dishes provided by the celebrants, many of whom were not from the USA but were nonetheless happy to share in the festivities.  The musical entertainment, for example, began with the Star Spangled Banner followed by the Canadian National Anthem followed by the Grenadian National Anthem, with the crowd standing throughout and doing its best to sing along.

Bob and Chuck discuss the good old days

Lynn (Silverheels), Lori (guest on Persephone) and Barb

Bob's wife and Terry (Nino) did the grill-work

Long-time employee Charmella always has a nice smile

When Jenny isn't doing the books she helps behind the bar

Dinghy Blues

Here comes Barb back from a shopping trip. Oops!  She is being towed!  Turns out the two throttle cables have sheared and will need to be replaced.  Will we find replacements in a timely manner?  How will we get around until we do?


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