US Virgin Islands: January 1-16, 2012

Click on the above thumbnail for a map during this time period
Lameshur Bay, St. John, USVI
Polar Bear Plunge
Faithful readers will recall that when we last wrote, we were in the
southeast corner of St. John, tucked into Lameshur Bay. On New Year's Eve
we celebrated a "European New Year's" (meaning that the toasts were at 8 PM our
time instead of midnight) on Livin' the Dream, along with Jim and Debbie
of Loonsong. New Year's day, we all walked the road over to Salt
Bay, site of the annual "mock the unfortunates in Northern climates" celebration
of St. John's very own "Polar Bear Plunge".
Drunk Bay
Afterwards, we took the short path over to the adjoining Drunk Bay, where the
windward exposure provides ample supplies for the creation of whimsical coral
creations. And then up the hill to a local bar/restaurant, for
free-for-a-donation chili.
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Limin' w/ chili
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Days later, after Loonsong and Livin' the Dream had both left the
bay, we were sitting in our saloon when a familiar catamaran entered the bay and
headed right for our boat. Holy mackerel, that is Awakening, with
Suzi and Mike (and their wonder dog Jib) aboard. We had met them in
Bonaire where we shared many a dive and social hour. We immediately invited them
over for sundowners, during which we decided to dive the next morning on nearby
Tektite Reef. Not only did Barb's new BCD perform splendidly, but I snared
a lobster!
Petroglyphs
On Jan. 3 Barb and I took the dinghy into the dock at Greater Lameshur and
followed the path up to the ancient petroglyphs that can be seen on the rocks on
the rim of a pond below a spring-fed waterfall. Very much worth the trip,
and one that two year's ago would have been a piece of cake. Alas, with
Barb's knee and my arthritis in ankles and knee, the up-and-down trip was slow
and somewhat painful.
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Path parallels stone walls on several stretches
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One of many near the pond
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Water Island
We have bounced around a bit from anchorage to anchorage since we got to the
USVIs. Francis Bay on the north end of St. John, and Lameshur Bay on the
south. At St. Thomas, we caught up with Livin' the Dream at Brewer
Bay, just north of the jetty that is the extension of the runway for the Harry
S. Truman airport. Lovely place, with a nice beach and sandy bottom
for good anchoring and calm waters provided by the shelter of the jetty.
We have also anchored a number of times in Elephant Bay, north of Water Island
and south of Crown Bay on St. Thomas. Always a bit wind-swept and roiled
by passing ferries, but oh-so-convenient to Crown Bay with its shopping and
access to the form of public transportation, known locally as safaris, that
consists of covered-but-open truck beds with bench seats. During one of our
times in Elephant we got a surprising email: a resident of Water Island
had looked down and noticed our boat and invited us to join them for lunch
sometime. The USVIs are usually described as consisting of three major
islands: St. Thomas, St. Croix and St. John. Residents of Water
Island describe it as the "fourth island". Formerly owned by the US
government, it was the site during WWII of a project to build a fort to protect
the then-existing submarine base at Crown Bay. The war ended before the
project was completed, and the fort never received armaments.
On January 11 we took the dinghy in to the ferry dock on Water Island, and
there were met by Tony, who took us on his golf cart up to his home on the
ridge, where we had lunch with him and his wife Mary, and with their friends
John and Jackie. Tony and Mary are the former owners of the 39'
Kadey-Krogen named Growler; thus their interest meeting us. They
live on the island 6 months and on Hilton Head, SC, the rest of the year.
We had a very nice time exchanging stories about cruising and about our life
experiences in general. At one point it was mentioned that Mary could play
the piano. I mentioned that I had heard in a podcast that a famous
piano-playing Mary (sic) had just died: Marian McPartland. Mary told
us that she had taken lessons from Marian, and at one point had called her up to
ask for advice about what to play at an audition. Marian had said not to
worry about what to play, just pay attention to what you wear! (Later, while
fact-checking on the web, I saw that Marian has not died. Wonder what I
heard on the podcast????)
After lunch Tony took Barb and I on his golf cart for a tour of the island.
He said there are fewer than 150 residents. We saw the Pizza Parlor, open only
on Friday nights, and the snack stand at Honeymoon Beach where on Saturday
nights the stand is replaced by a kitchen truck that provides a supper -- choice
of three entrees -- with all the trimmings. And then there is the free
movie shown on Monday nights, projected against a sheet strung between palm
trees. At the end of the beach is the only bar on the island. During the
tour we stopped to see the home of John and Jackie, which they have recently put
up for sale. After 20-some years of living full-time on the island, they
would now like to move to the Carolinas. They are asking $745,000 for their
beautiful home.
Earlier that day the massive cruise ship Allure of the Seas had docked
at Crown Bay. A little "googling" revealed that she was constructed in 2010 and
can accommodate 5400 passengers, is 1,181 feet long and has a beam of 184 feet.
It was quite a sight to see her point her nose into the corner and then swing
her tail around to the dock. From my vantage point it appeared, as she
swept by, as if her stern missed one of the anchored sailboats by less than the
length of the sailboat. At dusk Barb used her vibration-reduction
point-and-shoot to catch a surprisingly sharp picture of the ship as it left.
On January 16th we returned to St. Thomas and Elephant Bay after having spent
some time at Francis Bay, St. John. We returned in order to be nearby when
son Jeff arrives on the next day for a visit, but the 16th was on a Monday --
free movie night at Honeymoon Beach! Tony met us again at the ferry dock
and gave us a ride to the beach. He and Mary were not attending the movie,
but John and Jackie were. Locals park their golf carts in a long line facing the
screen consisting to two sheets sewn together and stretched between two palm
trees. We arrived well before dark, and enjoyed grilled chicken sandwiches
and a cheeseburger prepared by Heidi, the snack chef. Saw a brilliant green
flash, and then settled into two of the plastic chairs provided by Heidi and
positioned in front of the golf carts. Soon, the high-quality video projection
system began showing video clips obviously restored from the trailers that
preceded the main movie years ago at drive ins. You know -- 5 minutes
until the show starts, be sure to visit the snack bar, etc. etc. Which we did,
for some of Heidi's popcorn. Then, a Bugs Bunny cartoon. And then, the
main feature, preceded by the obligatory FBI warning against non-private use, so
in effect it said that what was about to happen was highly illegal. The
projectionist briefly stopped the show, and announced in a loud voice that if
anyone wanted to report him, his name was, um, actually I don't remember the
name he gave, but a "regular" whispered that the name he gives each Monday is
bogus.
The movie, by the way, was "Crazy, Stupid Love". Such was our
appreciation of the experience of the whole evening, that we enjoyed the movie,
even though it was our third viewing! (Long story not worth going into --
suffice it to say that the repetition is not because we think the movie
is that super.)
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Tony and Mary
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Streak of mud and silt stirred up by Alure's maneuver
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Geocaching
Someone hides a cache and publicizes its location on the geocaching web site.
Participants note the location, find the cache, leave their names on the
usually-provided log within the cache, and report the fact of their finding to
the web site. Barb and I have unsuccessfully looked for two caches near my
sister's home in Bismarck, ND. We noted that a cache existed at Maho Bay
on St. John, so when we returned to Francis Bay from St. Thomas, we took our
portable GPS to shore for a hunt. Alas, we are now zero-for-three.
Friday night out at Maho Bay Camp
Every Friday night, the menu at the restaurant includes prime rib. Bunches of
cruisers went in on Friday the 13th. Most, including Barb, took along
discretely-transported Tupperware for doggy-bagging duty; I cleaned my plate.
:-) Afterwards, the restaurant shows a movie, but we skipped out and instead
moved to an on-going glass-blowing demonstration. The young woman and her
male assistant were in the process of making one goblet -- no wonder such
items cost so much. The process was slow and obviously required skill and
dexterity. Really fun to watch.