Grenada: June 22-July 7, 2011
Click on the above thumbnail for a map during this time period
Fried Chicken at Stevie's Sister's Rum Shack
One night while Ann (Receta) was still in New Jersey, but Steve was
still here, the Terns and Takks and Steve walked to Upper Woburn
where Stevie's (the local Stevie as opposed to the Receta-Steve) sister
has a rum shack. Charlene fried some delicious chicken while we relaxed
with Caribs (local beer) and chatted with relatives and friends. On
the way up we stopped and chatted with Dingis and Janelle and Bici.
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Steve w/ Janelle and Bici
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Chuck and Devi w/ Dingis
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View from the rum shack just at dusk: Clark's Court Bay in the foreground and Hog Island anchorage in the right rear
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Barb w/ Stevie's mother Kathleen
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Steve w/ Stevie's friend Primus (who gave Steve the hat)
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Stevie's uncle Samuelson
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Stevie and Hunter
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Kathleen's sister and Kathleen
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Stevie's nieces and nephew
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Another Trawler!
One day the trawler pictured above anchored beside us. We stopped in
and met Art & Rachel (Jo Na Lisa), Arcadians from New Brunswick who
have been cruising the Caribbean for about as long as we have. During that
time they spent most of their hurricane seasons in Venezuela, but after having
two dinghies and three motors stolen, and after subsequently being boarded and
beaten and having their boat stripped of valuables and electronic gear, they
have sworn off mainland Venezuela and its close-in islands. They are a
gregarious couple; we had them over for sundowner drinks and they subsequently
had us over for dinner. During our wide-ranging conversations it
developed that Art had a contact in St. Vincent's Union Island that sells bulk
diesel fuel at about half the price that is generally available. The
diesel fuel is brought up from Venezuela by Venezuelan boats that buy the fuel
at the subsidized price of about 6 cents a gallon and then bring it to Union for
resale to the Union distributer. The Union business is perfectly legal,
and in fact has a specific license to sell the fuel to the larger fishing boats
and to the ferries, and to vessels such as ours, so long as the business checks
the papers of the vessels and assures that the vessels are either local or
properly checked into the country. The Venezuelan suppliers are presumably
breaking Venezuelan law, but after some hesitancy the Prime Minister of St.
Vincent decided to permit the activity since it so clearly benefits the St.
Vincent citizens. We do not know if the Venezuelan suppliers are daring
smugglers or if they have the official or tacit approval of the Venezuelan
government. We have heard that Chavez and Castro and the St. Vincent
Prime Minister are very tight, so it may well be that the latter possibility is
the case.
So with Art's help we contacted the Union distributer and received assurances
about the price and the availability of a sufficient quantity of fuel. We
cruised the 45 miles to Carriacou on Saturday, July 2 and anchored right in
front of Ann and John (Livin' the Dream) in Tyrrel Bay.
Sunday morning we moved around to Hillsborough and checked out of Grenada/Carricou
before cruising the 7 miles up to Union Island, where Barb went ashore to check
us in to St. Vincent while I watched the boat. When she got back we
tied up to the distributor's moored boat and took on 700 gallons at a price of
$2.62 (US) per gallon. We were back in Tyrrel Bay by mid afternoon.
Next day (Monday) Barb caught a local bus into Hillsborough while I went on a
hike w/ Ann and John, old cruising buddies that we first met on our way down to
the Caribbean some five year's ago. Tuesday we returned to Hog Island,
leaving Tyrrel perhaps 30 minutes behind Livin' the Dream. They
sailed down the eastern (windward) side of Grenada, while we motored down the
western (protected) side. When we pulled in to the Hog Island anchorage
they were only 20 minutes behind us. Trawlers rule! :-)
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John and Ann (Livin' the Dream) on their way over for dinner on Tusen Takk II
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Bill Paterson (Notary and bar owner in Hillsborough) has spruced-up his store front!
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Work on the new marina at Tyrrel Bay proceeds at a snail's pace
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Famous "island" off Clifton, Union Island, created by a rasta entrepeneur who patiently dumped conk shells to make enought dry land to build his bar
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Venezuelan supply ship delivering fuel to the Union distributor
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Local worker and a Venezuelan aboard the distributor ship
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Ellie sells from her dinghy delicious smoked fish in Tyrrel Bay
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Dwight and Stevie
We cannot have a posting without devoting a section to Dwight and Stevie, who
stop by virtually every day to snack and chat (and lately, fish for lane
snapper).
They have been frantically attempting to gather enough lambi (conch) to fill
an order for someone attempting to be ready for Grenada's mid-August carnival.
Dwight does all the diving, and Stevie drives the boat and attempts to keep up
with Dwight. When collecting lambi, Dwight throws the shells into the
boat. Stevie uses a small hammer to make the hole that will later be used
to cut the lambi free from its shell. "Later", because Dwight usually
brings up so many that Stevie has little time to do more than pound the holes.
So later, they anchor some place, or tie up to us, and complete the process by
cutting the lambi out of the shells and then cutting away the inedible portion.
When they return to shore they pound the lambi before storing it away in a
freezer. They work damn hard at their chosen profession.
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Stevie and Dwight removing lambi (conk) from their shells
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Cutting away the inedible parts of the lambi
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Cleaned-but-not-yet-pounded lambi piled into the front of the boat
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Dwight shows one of 30 sea cats (octopus) that they harvested on one of their days
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Hunter (Arctic Tern) and Peter (Light Heart) joined Dwight and Stevie on several of their fishing expeditions
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Some days the fishing from TT2's cockpit is a little slow...
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Dwight and Hunter playing mancala on TT2's cockpit
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Other Hog Island Stuff
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One of the fast boats that zips through the Hog Island anchorage delivering folks to the Island
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Receta had her mast removed, repaired and remounted, leaving Steve with the task of rewiring.
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Mike and Rebecca (Zero to Cruising) demonstrate their exercise routine for the folks from Snow Bird
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an old sailboat -- Coral of Cowles -- with a large crew doing lots of ongoing maintenance...
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And then I got the bright idea of taking a photo of the Hog Island anchorage
from atop the ridge to the north. I have taken better pictures, but
I have never worked harder for them. I first bushwacked my way up the
backbone of the ridge a few weeks ago, using my cutlass to clear the "trail"
that used to be there. I learned that there were no clear views of
the anchorage; too many bushes between the trail and the edge of the ridge.
I also got reacquainted with zooti, which the locals call "devil's nettle".
Ugly sores on my shin, little finger, and elbow. On my second visit, I
spent four and a half hours clearing away the tops of bushes that obscured my
view from the top of a huge boulder on the ridge. By then a wiser man, I
contacted no zooti. On my third visit, just today (July 7), I finally got
some pictures. Here are a few:
Le Phare Bleu Pizza Night
Clarke's Court
Clarke's Court hosts a "hamburger" night on Wednesdays and a "pot luck" night
on Saturdays, both of which often have musical entertainment. Gilfy's band was joined recently by a woman with a marvelous voice; she was a
joy to listen to and watch.
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Clark's Court bookkeeper Jeanie gets set for a "duel" of cameras with Barb
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