Martinique: May 17-May 28, 2009
Click on the above thumbnail for a map during this time period
While we were in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, our water maker suddenly
stopped working. Basically the same symptoms as 18 months earlier in
Trinidad, so I was pretty certain that I knew what the problem was.
I even had the rebuild kit, but didn't feel competent to do the repair myself --
the kit contained half-a-gazillion o-rings and various other plastic pieces.
What to do? Twenty-five miles north, in Le Marin, Martinique, cruising
literature suggested that Caribe Greement was a dealer for Sea Recovery,
the brand of our water maker. Le Marin booklets showed Caribe Greement as
the chandlery very near the customs office. So we went back to Le Marin.
After checking us back into
customs, I popped into the chandlery and inquired about repair. The
clerk made a quick phone call and then said a technician would be there in five
minutes. A nice young man appeared, and he spoke passable English. I
showed him a picture of our unit, told him I was reasonably certain that I knew
what the problem was, and assured him that I already had the rebuild kit for the
presumptive failed component: the "Energy Transfer Device" (ETD.)
"Good", he said. "Then if you will just remove the entire
water maker from your boat and bring it in, I will take it apart and rebuild the
ETD".
"Um", I said. "I will have to pay you to remove the unit
-- I don't know how to remove it."
"OK. Then I will come and get it tomorrow at 9 in the
morning."
At 10:30 the next morning I called the chandlery to report that
no one had come to get the unit. The lady put me on hold, probably made a
phone call, and then came back to say that someone would be there soon.
Someone was. But the not the pleasant young fellow who spoke passable
English. A much younger fellow, Martin, who spoke virtually no English.
He kept asking me to speak slower, but no speed was slow enough. I showed
him the unit, and he made a disquieting noise, and indicated that the removal
would be very difficult and take a very long time. Then he began examining
closely some of the attachments for other equipment mounted near the water
maker. It became clear that he thought he would have to take out all of
those units first in order to get to the water maker. I assured him that
the water maker had been removed in Trinidad without removing anything else.
He called back to the office, and apparently complained that the unit was too
imbedded to be removable. He hung up and tentatively pulled on some of the
wiring that lead to the unit. Didn't seem to have any idea how to get to
the attachment points so that the wiring could be disconnected.
Finally, he announced that he was sorry, but that he could not remove the unit.
I again assured him that the removal had been accomplished in Trinidad, but that
had no effect. I urged him to discuss the problem with Fred, the first
person I had dealt with, and he indicated that he would, but that he would be
telling Fred that the unit would be very difficult if not impossible to remove.
So, there we were. We had turned around to come back in
the wrong direction to Martinique, and the official dealer could not even get
the d*mn thing out of the boat!
I stewed for a while, and discussed with Barb the possibility of
doing without until we could get back down to Trinidad, a distant destination
that had not been a planned stop until near the end of the summer. Barb
took the dinghy into town to do some shopping, and I dug out the manuals.
Took off a face plate and could see where all of the electrical connections
were. Identified all of the hoses that would need to be
disconnected. Took copious notes about what was connected where, and
began the process of removing the unit. Some sweaty hours later -- for the
quarters are indeed tight and some things had to be removed by feel rather than
by sight -- I had the unit free. I wrestled the unit out of its tight spot
and onto a battery box, but it was too heavy for me to get out of the engine
room without help. So I called Caribe Greement yet again, and was
transferred to Fred. I explained my new situation, and asked for help in
carrying the thing, and also asked for permission to watch while he worked on
the ETD. He said I could indeed watch, and sent Martin the young tyro out
to help me get the unit up out of the engine room and onto the swim platform,
from which location we could squeeze it into the young man's dinghy. By
this time it was late afternoon, so I was to report at 9 the next morning for my
"lesson". When I arrived Fred already had the ETD off the unit, and
had the ETD disassembled. He showed me where a missing seal had caused a
leak, and where seals had burst, and where another seal was missing. My
opinion of Echo Marine in Trinidad hit a new low.
He explained that the pieces of the ETD would need a thorough
cleaning in an acid bath, and suggested that I rejoin him at 2 pm. When I
rejoined him I watched as he carefully reassembled the ETD. It was nearly
5 pm when we finished. The next day was Thursday, a holiday. Friday
was a holiday too. Saturday the chandlery would be open, and I said I
would come and pay then. He willingly helped me carry the unit to my
nearby dinghy, so that I could take it back to Tusen Takk II for
reinstallation. This, without any deposit or security required. On
the way back to my boat, I stopped for Steve (Receta), who helped me
schlep the unit back into position. I finished the reconnecting on
Thursday, and was pleased to have the unit perform better than it had for years.
Less system pressure required. Less oscillation of pressure. Higher
production rate. (Back to 16 gph on a unit rated for 17.) Fantastic!
So: having water maker problems? Fred at Caribe
Greement knows his stuff. (Martin, on the other hand, does not.)
But the next time I have ETD problems, so long as
I have the rebuild kit, ample amounts of silicone spray, and the appropriate
acid bath, I just might be able to fix the blessed thing myself.
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Fred at work on the water maker ETD
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By the way, when we first arrived at Le Marin we were surprised to see two huge
transport ships in the entrance channel. Both contained many boats
that were either being delivered to Martinique or that had been loaded to be
delivered to the Mediterranean. A few pictures:
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Dockwise loads/unloads by partialy submerging the mother ship and driving the cargo vessel on/off the mother, after which the mother ship is refloated
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Greenfleet, on the other hand, uses huge cranes to load/unload
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With our water maker problem solved, we settled in for some recreation before again
leaving Martinique. Barb and I each took a computer into Mango Bay,
a bar/restaurant/internet cafe, where we spent almost an entire day browsing,
etc. (Also shared a delicious order of mussels steamed in wine, garlic,
tomato and onion sauce. Served w/ French fries, of course.)
We had Steve and Ann (Receta) over for dinner, and they
had us over. Barb is turning into quite a cook, and enjoys discussing
recipes and techniques with Ann. Steve is a chess player, and I am just
beginning again after a hiatus of about 40 years.
We had a number of enjoyable adventures with the Receta crew.
One day we went for a long hike along the shore south of St. Ann. All the
way down the forested southwestern shore and then back up the rugged eastern
shore until we were once again parallel to St. Ann. By that time we
were tuckered out, and glad to get a ride in the back of a truck to St. Ann
across the island.
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Steve combing the beach in the SW corner
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Flower on a cactus plant
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Steve crossing a ridge to a point on the rugged SE corner
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View from point where Steve was in previous pic
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Ann waiting for the photographers to catch up
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We (TT II and Receta) rented a car for two days. Fortunately
the reserved car was not available, and so for no extra charge we got a much
larger "boxy" car with five doors and a large cargo area. Perfect, since
we spent the first day visiting a wine distributorship, where we each bought
about three cases of wine. Then on to the Neisson rhumery, where we
invested in several bottles of sipping rum. And finally, to a huge grocery
store. Martinique certainly profits from being an official part of France.
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Distillation tower at Neisson
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Gauges on the tower
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Another type of gauge -- note the roiling mix in the port
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Self portrait in the port?
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Stacked cases of bottles of rum all set for distribution
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Our hosts
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Steve photographing steel storage tanks
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Steve and Ann pony up in the tasting/selling shop
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Building in the village where we stopped for lunch -- note the inconsistent levels of maintenance between the exterior wall versus the roof
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The next day we all got up early, in the hope of arriving at Mt. Pelee early
enough to maximize our chance of climbing all the way up before the customary
afternoon clouds shrouded the top. Alas, I delayed our start by dinghying
over to a little island and cutting four walking sticks. The sticks were
appreciated by all, but we got caught in Fort de France traffic on our drive up
to Mt. Pelee, and so did not begin our ascent until about 9:30. Two hours
later we reached the rim of the caldera formed by one of the early eruptions.
Barb thought it prudent to stop at that point because of her bad knee, so the rest of us off-loaded some
of our pack contents and left them with her. We first descended over the
rim down a very steep cliff to a fascinating area with bizarre plants and mossy
growths. Then up the very steep mount that had pushed up much higher than
the rim in a subsequent eruption. Sometimes in clear sunlight, and
other times socked in by clouds. The summit of that huge mount is not the
ultimate, however. Instead, we had to cross the top and descend a bit and
then ascend the Chinos peak, the highest point of Mt. Pelee.
Unfortunately, the clouds never really cleared for us at that height, so we got
no grand overlook of the countryside or sea below.
(To see more photos of Mt. Pelee, taken on a 2008 expedition
that ended at the rim, click
here.)
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The girls get ahead while the boys photograph
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Barb grabbed this shot from her vantage point
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Ann prepares Steve for the final ascent
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Looking along the rim
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Resting at the rim edge
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View up the mount across the chasm at the rim
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Chuck descending down the rim
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Down below the rim, the boys discover a wet and mysterious mini-universe
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One of the sights at the bottom of the rim
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Moss (?) covered plants at the bottom of the rim
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Strange plant at the bottom of the rim
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Another sight on the bottom
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And another
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View from the bottom, the mount on the left and the rim on the right
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View in opposite direction, now rim on left and mount on right -- note the strange plants at the bottom
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Ann working her way up the mount
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On the protected side of the second-highest peak, these beauties adorned the way along the path
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While we were gone, Barb found this offering on the high overlook on the rim
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Looking back at the rim from part way up the mount
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Ann waiting for the boys near the top of the mount
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Ann and Steve crossing over toward Chinos
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Shelter high up on the mount, at the base of the Chinos peak (to the left out of the picture)
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Steve and Ann (and others) in the fog at the very top
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Another view of the foggy top
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Chuck at the very summit -- photo by Steve Manley
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Clouds cleared briefly for this shot down to the rim as we returned down the first mount
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Barb captured the Receta crew as they returned up the lip of the rim ...
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... and a tired old man (hamming it up a bit)
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Barb had our lunch all laid out when we arrived
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On the way back down, I stopped for a photo ...
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... of this little guy
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Tired hikers at the bottom shelter near the parking lot
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