Antigua: March 11 - April 2, 2009
Click on the above thumbnail for a map during this time period
After the departure of our Norwegian friends, we left the Lagoon
in St. Martin and began our journey to Antigua. We had intended on
stopping at White House Bay in St. Kitts, but left too late and so instead
stopped at the rolly anchorage in Statia. I knew that Chris and Yani
(Magus) had also left St. Maarten earlier that day, and so while still
enroute I hailed them on the VHF. Learned they had also planned on
going to St. Kitts, and that they also had revised their destination to Statia.
So, we had them over for dinner on the night of March 11. A
disagreement developed as to whether or not there would be a green flash that
evening, and
Chris and I ended up betting $20. I said "no", and Chris said "yes".
(By a 3-to-1 vote, Chris later won.) Next day they stayed at Statia and we
left early for Antigua.
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Magus arriving at Statia
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Stakes in a "green flash" bet
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Antigua (pronounced an-tee-gah) is about 14 miles long and 11 miles wide, and
covers about 108 square miles. Unlike most Caribbean islands,
ownership/control of Antigua did not bounce around among the English, French,
and Spanish; beginning in 1667 it became a British Colony, and it remained that
way until independence in 1981. Cricket is a very big sport here.
We spent the first night at anchor in the outer approach to Jolly Harbour, and the next day moved in to the Jolly Harbour Marina, where we took
advantage of the opportunity to fill up the water tank, wash down a very salty
boat, equalize the battery bank, and use the dock for easy access to the bow
pulpit so that I could re-caulk the joint between it and the hull.
On the 16th we left the marina and made our way the short
distance up to Five Island Harbour. There, we simply vegged for a
few days, enjoying doing absolutely as little as possible other than reading and
relaxing. But that can only last so long. We finally got the
kayaks down off the deck and went for a paddle over to the ruins of an old
windmill.
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South shore of harbour, and windmill as seen from Tusen Takk II
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Securing the kayak on the south shore
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What's this?
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"Jumbie" berries growing on low vines
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Enjoying the harbour from the large volcanic rock above the windmill
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Another view of Barb relaxing on the rock
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Windmill as seen from the volcanic rock above it
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Rocky shore below the windmill
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Barb launching her kayak for the return trip
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On March 19 we moved around to the northeast corner of the
island, anchoring in shallow water close to Great Bird Island. We took our
dinghy over to a nearby anchorage -- between Rabbit Island and Redhead Island
-- to get re-acquainted with Keith and Susan,
whom we had met in the Virgin Islands when we were on the way down to the Caribbean in
2007. They have since traded in their luxurious Roamer for an even more
fabulous Island Roamer. After an impressive tour of the boat we
had drinks and delicious nibblies.
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Island Roamer as seen from atop Great Bird Island
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On the 20th we temporarily moved the boat a little closer to the
airport in order to pick up Barb's sister Mary and her companion Candy.
Mary arrived with a large "CARE package" of items that we had ordered and had
had sent to her for delivery to us on the occasion of her visit.
What kind of items? Well, that depended upon our current needs, of course.
When YOU come and visit, the package may contain different items.
But in this case the package contained a supply of zincs, a bulky navigational
computer that we had repaired in Colorado, a huge supply of foam brushes for
eventual use in varnishing, a pair of sandals for Barb and bunches of powdered
milk. As soon as we were back to the boat we moved back to Great Bird
for a couple of days, where Mary enjoyed snorkeling with Barb, I enjoyed
photographing the birds, and we all enjoyed exploring the little island.
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A Magnificant Frigate hovers over the island ...
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... while red-billed tropicbirds ...
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... zip ...
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... back and forth ...
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... over the island
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Mary and Candy explore a grassy low spot
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Mary along the upper ridge
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One of the two small beaches on the island
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Looking toward the capital St. John's from atop Great Bird
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On March 22nd we went the long way (to the west, since the east side is
cluttered with reefs) around to the south end of the island where we nudged in
with a gazillion other boats in Falmouth Bay. The girls took the
dinghy in to shore in order to catch a taxi up to Shirley Heights for the famous
Sunday night barbeque. I stayed on board toiling over a devastating
failure of the onboard heads (toilets). The vacupumps were tripping
the breakers. Suspected a blockage in a hose, and first took apart a
joint in the hose near a low point. (That sounds so easy, doesn't
it? "First took apart." The joint didn't want to come apart,
and it took much grunting and swearing and tugging and swearing and growling and
swearing to finally get the joint apart.) No joy. Messy,
but not clogged at the joint. Further "upstream", there is a "Y"
fitting that merges the output of the two vacuflush pumps -- one for each head
-- into the hose that leads to the holding tank. Getting the hoses off
that fitting was another long and frustrating session of tugging, etc. Much much later,
when the hoses were finally off, it was revealed that the fitting was completely
clogged with crystallized "stuff". Many many hours later I had
completed the cleanout and had reassembled the hoses. Everything
seemed to work fine. Went to bed about 2 AM, tired but pleased at
having solved a messy problem. Next day the systems again failed.
The manual said that pumping against a blocked hose could destroy the duckbill
valves. So I returned to the basement and spent hours replacing the four
duckbills in one of the units -- the guest unit, since that seemed the most
important while we had guests. Next time will be much quicker, but
the manual didn't make it clear (to me, anyway) just HOW to dissemble the input
portion to the pump that contained two of the duckbills. Tested the
unit with the four new duckbills installed, and again everything seemed to work
just fine. But then later once again the unit bogged down and
tripped the breaker. By now I was developing some intuition about the
workings of the system. Clearly, I had yet another blockage on the
hose leading from the "Y" to the holding tank. Back to the joint
near the low point. Much less grunting and swearing on a "fresh"
joint, and now a closer examination of the rest of the hose to the holding tank.
Pull the end out of the basement and get it up high enough to flow downward to
the tank. Pour in water. Know what a pipe sounds
like when it is being filled with water? Glug glug glug at a higher and higher
pitch? That is what my hose sounded like. Not the sound
of flowing water, but the sound of a pipe being filled. Complete
blockage. Much grunting and swearing, etc., later, I was able to get
the other end of the hose off the holding tank. Then by alternately
using a plumber's snake and beating the sides of the hose with the wooden handle
of a hammer, I was able to extract tons of crystallized "stuff" from the hose.
Flushed the hose with water, put it back in place, and tested the unit. Everything seemed
to work fine. Furthermore, the other unit also seemed to work fine.
Days and days later, they still do. Everyone else on board seems to accept
the fact that the problem has finally been solved. Me? I hold my
breath every time someone flushes.
While in Falmouth Harbour we walked the short distance over to Nelson's Shipyard
in neighboring English Harbour. The dockyard was built to provide
the English Navy with a secure base from which to maintain their ships in the
Caribbean, and was completed around 1745. Restoration began in 1949, and
the Shipyard is now a national park with an admission fee. Many of
the original buildings have been restored, and now house hotels, restaurants and
businesses associated with yachting and/or tourism. On the day we
were there the place was packed, apparently with passengers that had been bused
in from cruise ships that had landed on the other end of the island at St.
John's. While Barb, Mary and Candy poked through the gift shops, I
hiked up to the trail to Ft. Berkelely, whose task it was to protect the
entrance to English Harbour.
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Pillars from old sail loft
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Nelson's Dockyard as seen from Ft. Berkeley
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Cannon on Ft. Berkeley
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Wall on approach to the Fort
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Fort powder magazine on the right
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On March 25
we returned to Jolly Harbour, where two of Barb's five living brothers arrived to join
our cruise. Barb caught a bus to St. John's to meet them at the
airport, as she had said she would in emails**. Later that afternoon,
as I was working on the computer, I heard a voice down below.
"Anyone home?" Here was Tim, Barb's brother from North Dakota.
Soon, the youngest brother Hugh, from Minnesota, also appeared. "Where is Barb?" they
asked. "We caught a taxi and have been up having a beer and pizza
while wondering where you were", they explained.
"Oh, oh", I thought. "By now Barb has reached boiling
temperature in St. John's."
In the interests of diplomacy, I'll cut this short. Mary succeeded in contacting
Barb -- still waiting in the airport -- by phone, and although Barb was indeed an unhappy
camper, she had had enough time on the taxi ride back to the marina to become
reasonably gracious when she greeted the boys. While both the girls
and the boys were with us, we did some lolling around the Jolly Harbour area and
we rented a car for a tour of the island.
Hugh was under the weather, but the rest of us spent a day seeing some of the
island. See pics below, first of Jolly Harbour, and then of our tour.
[**Addendum April 4,
2009: at the insistence of Hugh and Tim, Barb has gone back and
reviewed her pre-visit correspondence. Turns out she did NOT mention
meeting them at the airport. Barb apologizes to all concerned, but
points out that she has diminished responsibility, since she is suffering from
the early stages of Mad Cow disease.]
Jolly Harbour
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Tim shows Barb some of the North Dakota pics on his camera
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Barb shows off some of the beads she got by trading with the Amerindians of the Orinoco
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Mary
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Candy
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Mary and Hugh ham it up at Jolly Harbour beach
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On the beach at Jolly Harbour for drinks and dinner
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Tour of the island
Betty's Hope (partially-restored sugar and rum factory)
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Stencil used to label hogsheads containing sugar to be shippped to England
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Foundation of distillary
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One of the two windmills at the sugar/rum factory
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The vanes have been removed ...
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... and are stored in a nearby pile
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The inner workings of the restored windmill
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Boiler used when the factory switched from wind to steam
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Weed on the factory grounds
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Tim finds touring to be exhausting
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Antigua Rainforest Canopy Tour
We arrived too early to see anyone on the cables that stretch back and forth
across the gorge at this attraction that isn't really in a rain forest and isn't
really a canopy tour. Just about the time it looked like a batch
might be ready to be strapped to the first of many short wires, our group lost
patience and I had to join them -- with my lower lip hanging out -- back at the
van for our further travels.
Wallings Reservoir
Pleasant little park at the site of what was once an important source of water,
to judge from the remnants. Certainly had an impressive spillway.
Beach
We stopped for lunch at Long Bay, where we found a busy beach, several
restaurants, and too many T-shirt and trinket stands. Our guests'
first experience with local food, with its emphasis on "provisions".
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This guy will have an unpleasant evening.
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Devil's Bridge
After lunch we sought out the Devil's Bridge, which we found at the nearby
Indian Town Point.
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Tim, Barb, and Mary cautiously approach the bridge
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Taxi driver entertains his fare ...
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... but puts on more of a show than he intended!
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Some waves really cause a geyser!
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Looking down under the bridge
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St. John's
No tour of Antigua would be complete without a visit to the capital of St.
John's, with its teeming hordes of cruiseship passengers, and the inevitable
street performers. And then, back to Jolly Harbour for a homecooked
meal of Chuckie's mahi-mahi, caught on the way from Statia to Antigua, and saved
for just such an occasion.
Shirley Heights
As I've mentioned earlier, Barb, Mary, and Candy caught a taxi up to the
famous barbeque on Shirley Heights on March 22nd. Barb took a number
of pictures; here are a couple of them:
Then, on the following Sunday we (Barb, her brothers Tim and Hugh, and myself)
met Devi and Hunter (Arctic Tern) at the dock in Nelson's Dockyard.
There, we learned that the peculiar boat at the bulkhead had just arrived that
day after being rowed across the Atlantic, some 2950 miles from the Canary
Islands to Antigua. Yes, a 19' rowboat,
manned by a 25-year-old, Paul Ridley, the third and youngest of Americans who have
accomplished the solo and unsupported feat. It took him 88 days. You
can read about it at his website:
www.rowforhope.com. (By the way, his boat's name is "Liv",
Norwegian for "life".)
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Paul Ridley by his boat
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Note the extra padding Paul used on the seat to combat -- not entirely successfully -- sores on his rear
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(Remarkably, we learned later that there is another rowboat at Nelson's
Dockyard. This one, a 24' rowboat, has been used for four solo and
unsupported traverses of the Atlantic. The last was by "Tiny", who
completed the journey in May of 2005, and who donated the boat to Nelson's
Dockyard for permanent display. Alas, at the moment it just sits out
in the weather behind some of the historic buildings. You can read
about Tiny's trip at
www.tinysatlanticrow.com.)
But I digress.
We then all caught a water taxi across English Harbour to the shore below
Shirley Heights. After a long false start we found the steep path
that avoids the several-mile-long road up to the heights by ascending right up
the slope. The crowd was sparse when we got there about 4:30, but
things were really hopping by the time we ate shortly before sundown. The
spectacular sunset was a big hit -- although any chance of seeing a green flash
was spoiled by a distant hill that was in exactly the wrong spot.
The entire place was wall-to-wall people (virtually all of whom arrived by taxi)
by the time we left at o-dark-thirty -- many of them dancing to the lively music
of the steel pan band, not withstanding the sloping stones that pave the entire
area. Here are some of the pictures:
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Hugh and Tim arrive at the top of the path
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Barb takes their pic ...
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... which turns out this way
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"Century" plant actually takes about seven years to bloom
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English Harbour, with Falmouth in the distance
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English in the foreground, Falmouth behind; can you spot Tusen Takk II?
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Nonsuch Bay
On March 30th we ventured around the west side of the island to visit the
reef-protected Nonsuch Bay. We anchored between Bird and Green
Island, and ventured out for a snorkel along the protected side of the reefs.
Somewhat disappointing. Not many fish, and much of the reef is dead and
covered with a layer of sand. There are some healthy small hard
coral heads, however, so maybe my grandkids will someday show their grandkids
some nice snorkeling there.
The next morning, on the way back to Falmouth, Barb and the boys tried again
on the south side of Green Island in Ricketts Bay. They saw more
fish and critters, including a rather large octopus, but reported that the coral
was in the same sad shape.
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Looking west into the huge Nonsuch Bay
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What goes around ...
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... comes around
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Heading out for some snorkeling in Ricketts Bay
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Is Hugh jumping out or jumping in?
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Snorkeling ...
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... is tiring
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Hike from Pigeon Beach to Ft. Berkeley
On April 1st, no fooling, we joined Hunter and Devi (Arctic Tern) for
a walk up and then along the ridge from Pigeon Beach in Falmouth Harbour to Ft.
Berkeley in English Harbour. Afterwards, we had delicious pizza
before saying "so long, for awhile". They will sail south to
Guadeloupe, and we'll soon be heading north to Barbuda.
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Up on the ridge overlooking Falmouth Harbour
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At the other end of the ridge, looking across the outer bay of English Harbour and over to Shirley Heights
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Barb pauses to remove a stone
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One last attempt to picture Ft. Berkeley -- powder magazine on the left and guard house on the right
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