Iles des Saintes: April 18 - 23, 2009
Click on the above thumbnail for a map during this time period
Early on the morning of April 18, we departed from Falmouth Harbour, Antigua,
and pointed our bow toward Guadeloupe. Passed it right on by,
however. Stopped instead at the charming little associated islands
of Iles des Saintes (The Saints). (Click
here for an account of a
previous visit). Steve and Linda had departed Antigua even earlier
than us, and had had fair winds for their PDQ 44' catamaran, so we only
passed them at the very last moment. We anchored near the
ferry pier, and were routinely rocked by the many ferries bringing tourists over
from Guadeloupe.
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Luggage for returning tourists from one ferry
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After a day and night of that, and spurred on by the fact that the winds had
changed and our stern was now uncomfortably close to a small sailboat skippered
by a little man with too little chain out but too much insistence that as the
first vessel in the spot it was not required that he move, we hauled
anchor and attempted to find another spot. Easier said than done.
We wanted to get close to shore in order to be ready for the northern swells
that were predicted. But all of the spots were just a little too
small, meaning we would end up just a little too close to a neighbor. We
would drop anchor, fall back, and sigh. Haul anchor and move to
another spot. Drop anchor, fall back, and sigh. (As time
went on, some of these sighs formed words.) Finally, a good spot.
Lotsa room. But as we let the wind push us back so we could see
where we would end up, our "neighbor" popped up and declared emphatically that
we are too close. I quietly responded that I'd wait to see where we ended
up first. This enraged him, and he began pacing his deck and waving his
arms and opining that there was a whole bay to anchor in, and that we
were obviously the kind of people that cannot be talked to. Again,
as with the little man in the little sailboat, it was his call, really.
He was there first. So we "sighed" and hauled anchor.
Moved way-the-hell out into the bay, near the spot Seaman's Elixir had
ended up in, after having had their own interesting experiences trying to find a
spot where their anchor would hold. That put us in front of a huge
motor yacht, which we ignored, since we obviously don't know anyone in that
class. Oops. By the next morning we finally realized that the boat
was Island Roamer, with Keith and Sue aboard. Double oops.
We had run into them many times in Antigua, and we had entertained each other
for cocktails. As I explained when I hailed them on the VHF:
It's not that we are stuck up. We are just stupid.
All was forgiven, and we had them and Seaman's Elixir over for
sundowners. Several nights later they reciprocated, so Steve and Linda got
to see the gorgeous boat too. (Do you know how many bottles of red
wine three couples can consume in one short evening if they put their minds to
it?)
An interesting vessel appeared in the anchorage. Picton Castle,
we knew from a conversation we had had with folks in Falmouth Harbour, was a
steel-hulled vessel that hadn't always been a sailboat. It had had
several lives, but is now a vessel that provides a unique sailing experience to
its crew. Each crew member pays $40K for 18 months and the privilege
of being on the boat and working. They make their own sails, and
their own lines from cloth and hemp stored below. Crew members from
all over the world, and most in their 30's, as you might imagine given the
costs.
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Picton Castle
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Steve and Barb and I went on several early-morning hikes. Linda joined us
for another to one of the lovely beaches. Here are some pics:
The Tower (elevation 1000')
Fort Napoleon
Baie de Pompierre
The Army guys (from Guadeloupe?) that were working on Fort Napoleon were
apparently bivouacked at Baie de Pompierre. There certainly were a
lot of little "pup" tents set up in close formation in the Park, at least.