Dominica: May 2-15, 2008
Click on the above thumbnail for a map during this time period
The Nature Island
A little over a year ago, we went by Dominica on our way south,
and didn't check in. We flew our yellow quarantine flag off the
coast at Mero, and only stayed the night. Something we had read, or heard,
gave us very negative vibes, and we just went right on by. What a
mistake. Named by Christopher Columbus ("Domingo", since he visited
on a Sunday) and often confused with The Dominican Republic, because of the
similarity of names, the island features awe-inspiring landscapes, industrious
mountain farmers, Rasta villages, friendly locals, spectacular diving with clean
waters and healthy soft and hard corals teaming with turtles, frog fish, sea
horses and lots of other creatures from the fish/diving books. By now we
have seen lots of mountainous islands, with lots of rain forests and quite a few
waterfalls, but none are as spectacular and abundant as in Dominica.
And the best part is that, due to its having relatively few sparkling beaches
compared to islands to the north and to the south, tourism is low-key, and
largely centered around eco-tourism.
Indian River Trips
At the north end of the island, at Portsmouth, we took a number
of tours with Martin, who runs the Providence tour group. He also
collected our trash each day, delivered free grapefruit and bananas every couple
of days, and
checked in with us regularly to see if we needed anything. One of the
local tours was up the Indian River, which flows right into the Prince Rupert
Bay in Portsmouth. With us on our second tour was Joy Reed, a friend
and
ex-colleague of Chucks from Armstrong Atlantic State University, who spent a week
aboard with us and then moved over to a dive resort on the southern end of the
island for a second week.
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Our guide Martin rowing us up the Indian River (no motors are allowed)
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Green heron
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Hummingbird
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Hummingbird
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Only other boat we saw on the river
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Bullfinch feasting on a banana
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Another bullfinch
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Beautiful flower
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Female lizard admiring a male
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Male lizard trying to attract the female
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Bloodwood roots along the river
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More bloodwood roots
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Crabs abound along the shore
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Immature heron
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An iguana way up in the tree tops
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Martin weaving a "bird" ...
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... while Joy and Barb watch in rapture
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One of the finished products
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Wrecks from previous hurricanes right off the main street of Portsmouth.
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Northern Dominica
Tour
We took a 12-hour trip with Martin which covered the top sites in the
northern part of Dominica, including a visit to one of the few remaining
settlements of the Carib Indians that inhabited the Caribbean Islands before the
arrival of Europeans. We saw stills used to extract bay oil from the
leaves of bay trees. Martin showed us many of the local fruits and
vegetables. We saw many steep fields tended by industrious farmers
taking advantage of the rich volcanic soil to grow produce, not only for local
use, but also for export to neighboring islands. We had a gazillion
"Kodak moments".
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Trail to Cold Soufriere
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Cold Soufriere sulfur springs - not hot due to the gas being vented from so deep
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Still for making oil from bay leaves
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Still condenser
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Old bay leaves
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Butterflies mating
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Typical farmer working on the slopes
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Another sloped field
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Calibash plant
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Cashew fruit - notice only one cashew on the end of each fruit
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Church in an abandoned town
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Martin collecting a cocoa plant to show us the seeds
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He has opened the plant and we all enjoy tasting the seed coating
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Beautiful ferns
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Martin gave Barb an orchid to pot
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Mangoes everywhere, but not quite ripe
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Martin caught a crab to show us
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A closeup of the crab
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A baby pineapple that can be replanted
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Locals collecting seamoss
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More seamoss workers
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Martin is searching for a coconut for us to eat
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Smokehouse
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Wild flowers
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Another view
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Red Rock
One of the standard stops for northern tours is Red Rock, an area of ancient
volcanic outflow that is so high in iron as to largely prevent plant growth.
Hence, the red soil, and given the lack of plants, a beautiful pattern of
erosion. It kind of reminded us of the Badlands of the Dakotas
Canoe
We were fortunate enough to happen upon a master Carib boatbuilder plying his
trade along the road. Of course we stopped and gawked and took
pictures. But Martin made sure that it was ok to take pictures, and
it turned out that the two workers -- a master builder and his young assistant
-- were extremely friendly and gracious. Notice the face of the
master builder. The Caribs reminded us, in physique and physiognomy,
of Peruvians. They live in their own villages, and, at least until quite
recently, have been extremely reluctant to intermarry with the non-Carib locals.
The canoes are made by cutting down a huge straight tree, and then splitting
it length-wise. One of the halves is hollowed out, and then, using
the weight from stones and the pressure from spreaders, the sides of the
hollowed-out portion are spread. In order to soften the wood to
facilitate the spreading, fires are burned along the outside of the hull.
In order to prevent scorching, the hollowed-out hull is filled with water, and
calabash pitchers are used to scoop up the water and splash in against the
inside and outside of the hull nearest the heat. The workers also
had a rake to use to move the embers around along the hull. Off to
the side, the apprentice proudly showed us the two long planks that had been cut
from the other side of the original tree. Those were fated to become
the extension of the sides of the boat. The remarkable thing is that
those planks were cut entirely by hand, using only a chain saw. To
all appearances, they looked as straight and true and of such consistent
thickness as to have been done at a mill. The apprentice also
retrieved the upright members of the bow and stern (and propped them in place)
that had been cut from that top half, and that appear in some of the pictures
below. The apprentice also informed us that the master had been the
builder of the "Gli gli" canoe that has been paddled and sailed up the Caribbean
chain recently in historic re-creation of the migration of the Caribs up from
South America. Ann and John (Livin' the Dream) had seen that
vessel, and later sent us copies of pictures they had taken. (See
below.)
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Master boat builder
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His apprentice
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Heating and forming the sides of the boat
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He moves the fire along the sides of the boat and splashes water on the sides to keep them from getting too hot/burned
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Our group is admiring the boat
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Chuck learning some details of the process
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The other half of the log was used to cut planks (with a chainsaw) that will be the sides of the boat - look how straight they are!
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A finished canoe, seen earlier in the tour along the roadside
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Gli Gli canoe/sailboat (thanks to Ann -- Livin the Dream -- for the photos)
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Gli Gli under sail
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Chauiere
Pool
On our northern trip with Martin we also hiked in to the Chauriere pool.
There, Steve, John, and Ann demonstrated their cajones by jumping off the
side of the cliff into the pool. Ann slid down the chute, and later
jumped off the cliff. Steve did a somersault on his first jump, and
then dove head-first on his second. I took pictures. :-)
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Ann (Livin the Dream) sliding down the waterfall in Chauiere Pool
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John (Livin the Dream) jumping into the pool
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Martin (our tour guide) jumping
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Steve (Seaman's Elixir) diving in the pool
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Birthday Party
Ann (Living the Dream) had a birthday ending in a zero, and John
invited everyone on the tour to join him at the Purple Turtle
bar/restaurant for the celebration. John (Sojourn) also
arrived at the anchorage that day, and also joined us. Martin and
his wife were also invited. A good time was had by all.
Happy Birthday, Ann -- you don't look a day over 30!
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Ann (Livin the Dream) turned (something)0!!
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John (Livin the Dream)
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Barb enjoying the party
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Ann, Barb & Linda having a good time at the party
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Eric & Steve
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Martin - the master tour guide
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Martin's wife
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John (Sojourn)
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Nicky
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Nicky's husband Martin
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Seaman's Elixir
We had not seen special friends Steve and Linda for ages.
They had hooked two sailfish (at the same time!) on the way down to
Dominica, and released one but retained the other because it had been damaged.
So they had us -- and our guest Joy, and John and Ann (Livin' the Dream)
-- over for a delicious meal featuring the sailfish. Yummy. Of
course, Steve, being the new reigning "Minister of Rum", now that the original
has moved to the Americas, brought out after dinner several of his top-grade
rums. We had a delightful time doing a little tasting/critiquing, enhanced
for some of us by a few puffs on Steve's recently-acquired Cuban
cigars.
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Linda (Seaman's Elixir) was our hostess for a gourmet dinner
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Ann is enjoying one of Steve's cigars
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Barb is trying it too
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Joy relaxing before dinner
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Steve & Linda treated us to some fine rum at the end of the evening
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Fort Shirley
One of the interesting, and easily accessible, sites near the Prince Rupert
Bay anchorage is Fort Shirley. Some portions of the fort are in the
process of being restore/re-created. Others are still in their
picturesque overgrown state. Both are well worth a visit.
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One of the extensively (and expensively) restored buildings
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The group herded together for a picture
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One of many cannons abandoned in their original position -- not, as is so often the case, brought in afterwards to dress up the site for tourists
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Another cannon up along a high wall to the north
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Fireplace (?) in the commander's headquarters
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A room filled with grapeshot
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Joy in front of the grapeshot magazine
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A closeup of a single grapeshot
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Troop barracks
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More overgrown barracks
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View down the commander's building
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A "sandbox" tree noticed at the fort site
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