Puerto la Cruz & Mochima Park, Venezuela: August 1-13, 2008
Click on the above thumbnail for a map during this time period
Puerto la Cruz
After we returned from Angel Falls (cf. previous posting) we spent a fairly
leisurely week back at Bahía Redonda Marina. Barb
joined Devi for yoga early every morning, and I ran sprints in the limited space
available on the "safe" side of the guards and walls. And of course I
spent hours (nei, days) preparing the blog write-up on Angel
Falls. On August 6 we paid our bill, and being extra careful to assure
that the clerk, who doesn't speak any English, understood that we were
not cancelling our reservation for September and October, we joined Devi and
Hunter (Arctic Tern) and headed out to do some anchoring in Mochima Park.
We were on our way back to our boat when we ran into
another cruiser and chatted a bit. When he learned we were planning
on temporarily leaving the marina and doing some anchoring-off, he admonished us
to be careful. Said he had been out several months before and had been
burgeled of over a thousand dollars worth of stuff, taken off his deck at night.
Seemed to want to keep things kinda vague, and as we continued to ask questions
and pull answers out of him, his motives became more clear. He had
awakened to noise on his front deck, and had quietly opened up his hatch to peek
out. Saw two banditos attempting to cut loose his dinghy which was on the
front deck, using long
knives. Pausing in his story to explain that he is from Texas, he then
recounted how he popped out of the hatch with his guns (plural!) and his
million-watt light. Turned on the light and opened fire, with shells
containing buckshot. The two banditos jumped immediately into the water,
and attempted to swim to their vessel, which was floating some distance away.
He attempted to prevent that by firing at them, and by firing between them and
their vessel. He only stopped firing after about twenty shots, when his
wife reminded him that he had limited ammunition. The men succeeded in
getting to their vessel and fled. Only about 30 minutes later did he
realize that there were many items missing from his rear deck. Presumably,
they had stripped what they could, had loaded the loot into their vessel, had
pushed their vessel off, and had then gone to work on stealing the dinghy.
By the time he realized that he was missing items, they were long gone.
We asked again where he had been, and he again got vague.
One of the small islands between Puerto la Cruz and Mochima, was all he would
say.
Mochima National Park
About 12 miles west of Cumaná there is an extensive park
that runs all the way down to Puerto la Cruz. Named after the village of
Mochima, or perhaps after the peninsula Mochima, or perhaps after the Bay of
Mochima, the park features dozens of anchorages in secluded bays, by beaches and
among tiny islands. Development is restricted, and wildlife is protected.
There is a fee for yachts wishing to visit and anchor within the park.
Fishermen are allowed to use existing camps, but cannot build new ones.
There are a number of resorts on some of the larger beaches,
especially within the Bay of Mochima itself, access to which is provided by a
huge fleet of long open boats that ferry back and forth from the village of
Mochima to the resorts.
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Tour boat ferrying customers out to a resort in the Park
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One of the many resorts in the Park
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On the recommendation of a friend back at Bahía Redonda, we spent the first
night anchored at the extreme eastern end of Golfo de Santa Fé, which is about
five miles long and from one to two miles wide. Much better than being in
the marina, but still not perfect, and so we moved on the next morning.
Poked into El Oculto (Hiden Bay) and found it to be well-protected and
delightful. Clear water, and healthy reefs fringing along almost all of
the shoreline. Spent three nights there, and three lovely days snorkeling
and hiking and, on one special day, diving. The hard coral were absolutely
covered with christmas tree worms. Dark blues and pale blues and rusty
tans and whites, all crowded in shoulder to shoulder. We saw a number of
new fish species, and several octopi. And the bay was peaceful. One
morning we got the kayaks down and paddled along the long shoreline. The
water was so still and clear and undisturbed -- with not even a ripple -- that
we could see down onto the coral just as if we were snorkeling. It was
like floating along on magic carpets. Later in the day there would be a
few ripples on the water, but it was always peaceful in the bay. Just the
occasional small local fishing boat passing by, or visible off in the distance
on the other side of the bay.
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Arctic Tern en route to Golfo de Sante Fé -- note Devi working on the deck
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Note the dolphins playing w/ Arctic Tern
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Small shrine on a water-surrounded boulder in Mochima National Park
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On one of our first days
at El Oculto, Hunter, Devi and I went on a bushwhacking expedition up the ridge.
Hunter and I each had our machetes, and I quickly realized that mine was very
dull. We were not on an established trail, so the going was slow as we
attempted to pick our way through the cacti and prickly bushes. Devi and
Hunter were wearing Keene shoes with very hard soles, but I was wearing my
running shoes. Several times I had to stop and pull cactus thorns out of
the bottoms of my shoes -- you can perhaps guess how I knew they were there.
By the time we got back down to the shore, I was limping badly from thorns in my
left foot. Hunter and Devi brought their extensive first-aid kit over to
our boat and Devi attempted to extract a thorn from a particularly tender site,
but had no success. By this time my foot was swollen, and the joints
protested when my toes were bent up. It took several days for the swelling
and soreness to recede.
Hunter told me about the small cactus fruits that grow out of the top of what
I think are called Turk's Head Cactus. When the fruit is ready, it is
bright red, and while still in the head, appears to be perfectly spherical.
It has a little dried-up remnant of the flower on top. This has been
designed by Mother Nature to serve as the perfect "handle" for a bird to pluck
the fruit out of the cactus. This function is further facilitated by the
shape of the fruit, which like an inverted tear drop. The fruit is tiny,
and contains a number of soft seeds, but tastes good. The cacti begin
producing the fruit as soon as the rainy season arrives.
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Cactus fruit with Turk's Head in background. Note hole from which fruit came.
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Tusen Takk II and Arctic Tern in El Oculto Bay
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Fish camp just north of El Oculto Bay
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Devi
and Hunter are accomplished white-water kayakers. We let them use our
kayaks for a cruise around the bay, and when they returned they gave us a quick
demonstration of their Eskimo rolling abilities. Impressive!
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Devi relaxing
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Devi and Hunter paddle off to infinity
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Hunter demonstrating proper paddling technique
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Devi is still relaxing
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Hunter coming out of a successful roll ...
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... and Devi doing the same
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Then we decided to move on over to the huge, fjord-like Mochima Bay.
Near the bottom of the four-mile-long narrow bay is the village of Mochima.
We anchored there briefly, and took a dinghy into town, where we walked the
little fishing-and-tourism village and had a delicious lunch at the restaurant
Puerto Viejo. As we were finishing our meal, a couple of burly park
rangers docked in front of the restaurant and came in and sat at a table.
They were immediately joined by two lovely señoras (or
señoritas?). Devi, who is fairly good at Spanish, decided to walk over and
ask them a question. After standing patiently beside them for some
moments, and being ignored, she apologized for interrupting and asked which
anchorages were safe. Ignoring her question, they told her that she must
go across the street and purchase anchoring permits if we intended on anchoring.
She explained that we had already purchased our 12-month
permits in Puerto la Cruz, and asked again about safe
anchorages, only to be told brusquely that all anchorages were safe.
(Yah, right.) We had heard about incidents right off the village,
and decided to move down a little further in the bay to the very end, which
would put us mostly out of sight and out of the busy ferry traffic pattern.
Just before dark we were approached by a small sailboat with a Dutch flag.
Sylvia and Jeroen aboard Netjer (an Inuit word, pronounced "net-chur", at
least by the Dutch). We urged them to join our little self-protection
cluster, and explained which VHF channel we were leaving on all night.
Since the site was at the far end of the bay, the water was not nearly so clear
and nice, and so we decided the next morning to return to El Oculto.
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Mochima Village
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Staging area in the village for rides to the day resorts
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Village also hosts boat builders ...
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... and serves as a graveyard to boot
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Puerto Viejo -- one of the better restaurants
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Joined by our new young Dutch friends, we four old-timers again dinghied
across the bay to Turtle Beach, where we had another delightful snorkel, made
even more fun by the enthusiasm of Sylvia and Jeroen when we showed them things
they would not have otherwise noticed. What kinds of things? Bearded
fireworms and tiger-tail and donkey-dung sea cucumbers and upsidedown
jelly fish and octopi and giant anemone and jaw fish (with just their heads
peeking out of their shell-rimmed burrows in the sand).
On our second afternoon we were suddenly joined by four other vessels.
They all anchored in our immediate vicinity, presumably because it was the most
attractive and protected location, but also because we were there already, and
there is safety in numbers. Two of the vessels (including old friends
Roger and Andie on Oma & Opa) left at three in the morning, bound for El
Coche, and trying to time their voyage so as to minimize headwinds. The
other two were still there when Netjer set out for Los Roqeus, Arctic
Tern set out for Puerto la Cruz, and we set out for Medregal Village.
When Devi and Hunter (Arctic Tern) got back to the marina, they ran
into our Texas gunslinger. Told him all about our great time in the
peaceful anchorage with the fantastic snorkeling. Only then did the Texas
polecat reveal that El Oculto was where he had had his incident!
Medregal Village
The Golfo de Cariaco was still teeming with dolphins as we retraced our path
to Medregal Village; we were joined by huge pods of the playful creatures
a number of times. The village is still its same sleepy enclave of
cruisers. The lift has been in ill repair for the entire time we have been
gone, and so there are anxious cruisers waiting at anchor to be hauled, and even
more anxious would-be cruisers who have finished their repairs and are eager to
get back into the water. The swimming pool was an absolute pit when we got
here, but they are cleaning it as we speak. The showers are still free,
and the beer is still cold. They turn on the grill for a pot luck on
Wednesday nights, and most of the anchorage turned out for conversation and good
food. A quarter of a mile to the east a Swedish couple has purchased land
along the bay. They are fixing the place up, and have just commenced
serving pizza on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights. Pizza made in their
home-made outdoor oven that is a replica of a commercial wood-fired oven in
Margarita. Yummy.
Mustang Sally is here, and Wendy has been joining us for early morning
exercise. I run, Wendy power-walks, and Barb walk-walks. We all meet
back at the self-serve bar after an hour where we consume vast quantities of ice
water. It gets hot on land here in Venezuela and it gets hot early!