Martinique Part 2: May 23-30, 2007
Click on the above thumbnail for a map during this time period
Southern Anchorages and Expeditions in Martinique
On 5/23 we left St. Pierre and traveled down the coast to Anse Mitan, which
is across a big bay from the city of Fort-de-France. Barb was anxious to
visit the city; Chuck was not. Found a spot right next to Kevin and Amanda
on Solstice, but had trouble setting our anchor -- we kept scooping up
pieces of concrete debris that would prevent the anchor from plowing into the
sand. The insecure holding, Chuck's lack of enthusiasm for a visit to the
city, and the fact that we awoke the next morning to find ash from a distant
fire falling on the boat, all contributed to an early departure to parts further
south, to wit St. Anne and Ilet Baude in the Le Marin area. Along the way we
passed a 573' high chunk of limestone called Diamond Rock. During the
Napoleonic wars, the British navy landed 100 sailors on the rock and fortified
it with cannons, and believe it or not, registered it as a warship, the HMS
Diamond Rock. They constructed a munitions depot, a dock, a cistern, and a
hospital on the rock, and from it were able to enforce a blockade of Martinique
for almost 18 months. Finally, the frustrated French decided to attack the
rock. But how to attack an unsinkable "ship"? The French began the
attack by floating over to their foes several barrels of rum, and after a
suitable wait, were able to easily take the fortification. The British
sailors fled to Barbados, where they were court-martialed for deserting their
ship.
In arriving at Marin/St. Anne, we caught up with Steve and Linda on
Seaman's Elixir. On 5/28 we all rented a car and set out to visit as
many rum factories as we could in one day. Oops. That Monday was a
holiday on Martinique, and so the rum distilleries were closed. So were
most shops in the cities and villages. Traffic was very light, however,
and we decided to continue the tour of the island. Stopped in
Fort-de-France, and so as it turned out Barb could kinda get her big-city-fix
anyway. Most everything was closed, but we saw the Place de la Savane,
a 12-acre waterfront park. The park was undergoing some kind of renovation -- it
was surrounded by a construction fence and did not match the "flower-filled"
description mentioned in all of the guide books. But through the fence we
could see the statue of Empress Josephine, wife of Napoleon. The most
striking aspect of the 1859 statue is that Josephine no longer has a head -- she
lost it in 1991 during a protest -- perhaps because the Empress is said to have
influenced Napoleon to prolong slavery in France and its colonies in order to
benefit her own family's plantation.
Our travels took us back up to St. Pierre, where we visited the nearby
butterfly garden and had lunch in the adjacent restaurant. From there it
was an easy drive to the end of the road on the southeastern slope of Mt. Pelee.
From that point there is a steep steep path that leads to the top -- but we had
neither the time nor the correct shoes for such a challenge, so we only ventured
up a few hundred yards, hoping to get a glimpse of St. Pierre. Alas, we
were just out of sight on the wrong side of the mountain.
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Diamond Rock
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Another view
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Closeup of caves on Diamond Rock
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Zig-zag path up the hill behind church at St. Anne
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Each corner has a station of the cross
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Burial crypts in St. Anne
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Wares in open market at St. Anne
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Ditto
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Ditto
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Colorful plant in St. Anne
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Banana field -- note blue plastic over each bunch
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Closeup of plastic bag over banana bunch
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Flower in butterfly garden
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Another flower in butterfly garden
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Musical bamboo wheel
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How does it work?
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Beautiful home at one of the (closed for holiday) rum distilleries
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Linda snapping the home
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Making noise in butterfly garden
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Old Justice Building in Fort-de-France
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Deserted street on a holiday in Fort-de-France
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Headless Josephine in Fort-de-France park
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View from road end at base of Mt. Pelee
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Looking up at Mt. Pelee peak
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Steve and Linda coming up path
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Paths on Mt. Pelee
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View from Mt. Pelee -- the village of Morne Rouge
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Steve gathering fruit on the grounds of a rum factory
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Sign for one of the rum factories
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Instead of flagmen, the French use portable traffic lights
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Habitation Clement
On the way back toward Marin we stopped at Habitation Clement, which
was open but due to close in approximately 1/2 hour. The young lady at the
desk said that it would take at least 2 hours to see the plantation, and so we
declined to pay the admission fee and went on our way, but decided to rent the
car again the next day and return. And so we did. Turned
out the plantation grounds have been converted into an extensive museum with
separate treatments of the botanical, industrial, architectural, and rum-making
heritage. We soon discovered that the plantation had been the site
of an historic summit between President Bush (the elder) and President
Mitterrand and assorted generals at the height of the Gulf War. Rum is no
longer made at the site, but several buildings on the self-guided tour are still
used for aging rum in casks.
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These pictures were all taken in the botanical section of the Habitation Clement ...
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... there are over 300 species of tropical plants on the grounds...
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Banana field just outside the grounds
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Black swan
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Black swan nest w/ eggs
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Linda seeking a dramatic angle
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... and these were in and around the rum museum ...
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The old Creole house ...
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La Mauny Distillerie -- Riviere-Pilote, Martinique
On the way back to Marin from our visit to Habitation Clement, we
passed the La Mauny distillery. On an impulse, we pulled in, and at
last discovered a working factory. We joined a guided tour, mostly in
French, but the young lady could speak a little English and gave us all
remarkable free rein to crawl around and photograph. Here are some
of the results:
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Small truck arriving with hand-cut sugar cane
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Large truck being unloaded up over the side
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The chains are used to pull the load up over the side
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The huge claw that grabs the chains
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Large truck dumping machine-cut cane -- right foreground has hand-cut cane
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Steve and Linda getting help with a stalk for tasting
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About as much cane as one man can cut in one day
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Cane juice -- vesou -- collected from the grinder/crushers
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View from above of the crushers
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Closeup of one of the grinder/crusher wheels
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Sprinkle of water helps to remove the sugar in the crusher
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Another view (from above) of the vesou
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Residue fiber after crushing out the sugar -- this is dried and burned
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Peekhole into a furnace burning the dried residue
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Steve (and guide) tasting the raw 75% result of distillation before dilluting and aging
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... tastes kinda strong!
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La Mauny is award-winning
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Flag courtesy of ITA's
Flags of All Countries used with permission.