Grenada -- Part 2: July 10 - 26, 2007
Click on the above thumbnail for a map during this time period
Hog Island and vicinity
Hog Island is a quite small island. There is a nice cozy anchorage
between Hog Island and mainland Grenada to the north. The entrance twists
through outer reefs, but it is well marked, and the reefs serve to minimize
almost to the point of elimination any rollers. Hog Island is uninhabited,
with no dwellings save for one ramshackle bar, run by a young man by the name of
Roger. Several times a week, several huge catamarans bring in tourists
from St. Georges. The big cats throw out a stern anchor and then inch up
to the sand beach in front of the bar and stay for several hours. The
youngsters on board play in the water off the cat, and the not-so-youngsters
drink at the little bar. There is a BBQ at Roger's at 3 PM every Sunday,
an event that brings extra boats into the bay and dinghies from many of the near
marinas and anchorages.
Old sailing acquaintances Jim and Norma on Mi Lady are anchored here,
as are Steve and Ann on Receta. Just to the east of the anchorage
is a narrow cut that breaks out into Clark's Court Bay, and at the north end of
that bay, either at anchor or at the dock of Clark's Court Bay Marina, are a
number of cruising friends (that go all the way back to the Turks and Caicos
and/or Luperon and/or our previous winter in the Exuma Islands.) There is an active cruisers' net on the VHF at 7:30 AM in the mornings; and on
this net activities are announced that almost rival those of Georgetown back in
the Exumas. Domino tournaments and poker games and pot lucks and karaoke
nights and island tours and cooking demonstrations and watercolor art classes
and exercise every morning at
8 AM, etc., etc..
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Barb attends a cooking demonstration
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BB shows how to cook the local foods
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Sunday mornings this young man picks up garbage for a modest fee
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Roger's Bar on Hog Island -- home of Sunday BBQ
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Bocci on the uneven land around Roger's
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Chuck takes the game seriously
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Free pool table at Clark's Court Bay Marina
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Karaoke on Friday nights at Clark's Court Bay Marina
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Island Tour
Ten of us arrange for an all-day tour of Grenada. With us are old
acquaintances from Seaman's Elixir and Solstice, and newer
acquaintances from Sol Magique and Minx. Our
driver/guide is Cutty, a warm and friendly local that does a splendid job.
We learn about many of the local plants, including the spice of such economic
importance to Grenada: nutmeg. The nut of nutmeg grows inside a
fruit. When the nut is ready to harvest, the fruit splits. The nut
can then be removed from the fruit. The nut is surrounded by a thin red
layer called "mace" that is itself an important spice. The mace is removed
and retained, and the nuts are dried. When ready, the nuts are cracked by
a machine and then the meat is separated from the shells by hand. We
visit a huge processing and storage facility for nutmeg in Grenville, where we
learn that 90% of the nutmeg trees in Grenada were destroyed by hurricane Ivan
in 2004. Hence, most of the drying racks are unused when we visited. It is expected that it will be 10 to 15 years before the nutmeg industry on
Grenada fully recovers.
We visit Allendale Falls, where everyone takes a dip except documenting
photographer Chuck. We visit the ancient fort Frederick, which was
considered a military target by the USA when President Reagan invaded Grenada in
1983 on the pretext of "rescuing" a handful of American students in attendance
at the Medical College, but whose real purpose was to topple the government of
Grenada in response to their getting too chummy with Cuba. From the
fort one can look to the east and see the ruins of a mental hospital that was
destroyed by the invading Americans when they mistook it for the fort.
(The hospital has moved to a new location -- the ruins have been left as they
were.) From the fort one can look north and see the outbuildings,
grounds and gardens, and main buildings of Her Majesty's Prison where
certain members of the deposed government are still held. (They
assassinated one of their own and took over the government just before the
invasion, and hence are in prison for murder.)
We visit an old rum factory, where they still do things the old way. At
the conclusion of the tour we all get a taste: very strong and with a
strong sugar cane taste -- no aging whatsoever. We buy a bottle whose
label reads: Royal Grenadian Rum, 69% alcohol, at the
River Antoine Estate, organically produced rum since 1785.
We pass through an abandoned airport, where several planes lie in ruins. One belonged to the deposed ruler of Grenada, and the other belonged to the
Cuban military. After the USA invaded Grenada, she refused to allow the
Cuban plane to return to Cuba.
And then up a steep grade and into a rain forest, at the apex of which we
stop and our driver Cutty beeps his horn. Soon wild monkeys appear,
anxious to partake of the fruits that Cutty has brought along for just that
purpose.
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Tour driver/guide Cutty
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Cutty explained fruits, herbs, spices and roots along our route
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Cashew nut grows outside the fruit! There is also a large pit inside, and the fruit itself is quite delicious.
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Cocoa beans in their pod
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Cocoa tree
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Breadfruit
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Soursop
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Nutmeg on a tree -- when ready the fruit splits
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Chuck documenting nutmeg
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Cutty shows the crew a split nutmeg
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Red banana
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Sweet Banana
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Volcanic lake in the background
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Annandale Falls
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Fellows jump into the pool in return for contributions -- note jumper on the way down
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Paul decides to come up directly in the falls
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Barb, Jeanette & Paul play in the falls
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The crew relaxes in the warm waters
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Amanda, Cynthia, Linda, Jeanette & Barb
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Barb and Linda
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Fort Frederick -- ancient fort attacked by USA in 1983
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Mental hospital mistaken for the fort by the Americans, who destroyed it
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Still-active prison on ridge below the fort
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The Lagoon, where TTII hit a submerged piling
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Wild monkey
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But they trust Cutty
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And love to steal from his pockets
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Brazil nut case
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How to carry something in the Caribbean
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Mace collected from the outside of nutmeg nuts
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Nutmeg nuts drying in racks
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Mostlly empty racks
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Sacks of nutmegs
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Nutmeg sack
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Shell crusher in nutmeg factory
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Separating stations downstream from the crusher
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Abandoned Cuban planes in an abandoned airport
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Feeding chute to a crusher/squeezer at River Antoine Estate rum factory
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Crushing/squeezing mechanisms
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A water wheel powers the crusher
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Sugar cane juice runs down this dirty trough
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Cane juice is concentrated in open boiling pans
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Casks formerly used for fermentation
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The ferment is now done in a large concrete container
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Boiler for the distillation process
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Cooling chambers
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The "quality control lab"
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The single machine used to cap the rum bottles
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And now for a review ...
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Near the end of the tour -- a beautiful beach (note cows to the right)
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The cows get a drink in a fresh stream that runs into the ocean
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The beach in the other direction
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Cutty shows the group a loofta
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Loofta grow on vines, and are filled with seeds
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Hash House Harriers
Every other Saturday, the Grenada Hash House Harriers (www.grenadahash.com)
set off on a shredded paper trail laid earlier in the day and designed to take
the "pack" through off-road locations on the island. Some run, some walk,
and some dawdle. Hashing was started in 1938 in Kuala Lumpur, Malaya, and
there are now some 1700 "kennels" throughout the world -- mostly at locations
associated with the British. Hashes always start and end at a rum shop,
which says a lot about the real purpose of the organization. The trail is
"new" each time, having been set by two designated "hares" who reconnoiter the
area and create a suitably picturesque but character-forming trail for the pack.
First-timers are called "virgins". The pictures below are from the hash on
July 14, where there were perhaps 150 hashers, most of them locals but also with
a good representation of cruisers and tourists. As this is written we are
on the eve of a special moonlight hash on the 28th -- celebrating the full moon.
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Ready for a ride to the hash!
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Getting instructions at the start
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Down a road, then into the riverbed, and oops, a crossing!
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Up the steep bank on the other side
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Through an overgrown meadow and then up a steep forested slope
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After a long lateral trek along the forested slope, a breakout into the yard of a mansion ...
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...where Barb pauses briefly
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Even the dogs were dressed for Bastille Day
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Non-virgins waiting for the start of the loss-of-virginity ceremony
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Showing his certificate of lost virginity
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Barb, Chuck and Steve (Receta) in the foreground
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