Tobago Part 2: August 18-28, 2007

Click on the above thumbnail for a map during this time period

After we left Store Bay, we traveled up the west coast of Tobago, visiting the most protected of the anchorages.  We spent time in Mt. Irvine, Great Courland Bay/Plymouth, Englishman's Bay, and Man of War Bay/Charlotteville.   They each had their charm, but Englishman's and Man of War were perhaps our favorites.  Steve and Linda (Seaman's Elixir) and Paul and Ginette (Sol Magique) were with us until we headed back south, and so you will see them in the pictures below.  We had some great walks through terrific scenery.  You will not see pictures of the waterfall at Parlatuvier, however, because Chuck had the camera on his belt and struck off on a difficult path (that Barb, Paul, and Ginette deemed too unappealing).  Twenty-five minutes later he finally turned around and returned to a somewhat-worried-but-then-irate wife who had gotten the idea that he was wandering around in the wild forest or had been bitten by a poisonous snake or had fallen and struck his head on a rock (or all three).  Au contraire, he was just following a somewhat unused path up along the side of the steep slope, in conditions reminiscent of the Hash House Harrier races in Grenada.  Unfortunately for him, the party had found the correct path along the side of a little stream, and had found the falls sufficiently early on as to have ample time to gather up a certain amount of concern/impatience/irritation at his absence.  Chuck likes the woods, and would do it all again but might do a better job of communicating how long he might be gone and where he might meet them.  In this instance, Barb found an elderly man with a machete in a corn field beside the woods .  She asked him if he had seen Chuck.  He hadn't but offered her the use of his cell phone to call him.  Incredibly enough Chuck was carrying a cell phone in his backpack, so that should have been possible,  but who knows their own cell phone number?  You can bet Barb has it memorized now.

You might notice in the photos below that our dinghy sports a front fender.  We put it on while the dinghy is tied behind the boat.  We have found that the bow eye on the dinghy does not like the swim platform and has chipped off the fiberglass in a number of places.  We have been unsuccessful in our attempt to find a curved fender for the bow or to have some protection made.  We plan to put a rubber strip around the swim platform to protect the fiberglass and continue our search for some padding around the dinghy bow cleat.  Any suggestions would be welcome.

While snorkeling at Man of War Bay, we discovered that there were tiny little jellyfish-like creatures in the water that gave a mild sting.  After about 50 feet and many stings, we decided to do a hasty retreat out of the water.  We were pleased to discover that the sting did not last very long   But the next day Barb found that she was covered with welts.  She assumes she had also been attacked by creatures called sea lice.  They are somewhat analogous to chiggers or red bugs found in Georgia, in that they leave an enzyme in the skin that causes for days a flare-up reaction much worse than a mosquito bite.  The trick is not to scratch the welts or they won't heal for weeks.  Barb seems to have a heightened sensitivity to sea lice -- this was not the first time she had a bad reaction when Chuck had none at all.   Fortunately, her welts were gone in about five days.  Even paradise has its down-sides. 

We are in Trinidad as we write this, and are a little preoccupied with getting ready to fly back to the USA, so we are not giving Tobago its due.  It is a beautiful island and we plan to go back there at every opportunity.  It is one of our favorite islands.

When it rains hard ...

... you just want to hunker down and wait for it to stop

Then the sun comes back out ...

... and its time to dry off

... and maybe invite someone in for a chat. "Say do you think that motor is really only 5 horse?"

Linda and Ginette at a bar/bistro on the beach at Mt. Irvine

There were some interesting customers at the bar

On our walk to a remote beach Linda pauses to remove a stone from her sandal

Just above the beach, this indecisive tree grows

A gorgeous beach

Linda, Barb and Ginette view the "Mystery Grave" at Plymouth, Tobago

The inscription on the "Mystery Grave"

Great Courland Bay (Plymouth) as seen from Ft. James

Fisherman at Great Courland Bay

Pier at Plymouth

Another view of the pier

It is hard to stay in shape aboard a vessel

Englishman's Bay, Tobago

Chuck in Englishman's Bay

Parlatuvier Bay

Paul, Barb and Ginette (and Chuck) hike from Englishman's Bay up to Parlatuvier Bay in order to find the local waterfall

There were some mighty steep hills along the way...

Steve (Seaman's Elixir) replaces a component on his mast

Beach on north end of Man of War Bay, Charlotteville

Stairs down to the beach

Drainage ditch along the road to the beach

Another view along the path

Trail to the beach -- note the mangoes on the ground

Man of War anchorage as seen from the road to the beach

It is a deep anchorage, but pretty, no?

Seaman's Elixir as seen from the path to the northern beach

Fisherman anchored along the northern shore of Man of War Bay

"Fixer Upper" along the road to Ft. Cambleton, Man of War Bay

Charlotteville as seen from the road to Ft. Cambleton

Another view from the road

The very modest Ft. Cambleton -- but Steve and Barb enjoy the great view

Next day we take a LONG hike to Lookout Point

A good long (1 1/2 hour -- all uphill) hike deserves a break

Sign in Gas Station in Charlotteville

Sign on the rear wall of a small convenience store in Charlotteville

Athletic field in Charlotteville

Sign on the edge of the athletic field

Cleaning fish (Blackfin Tuna) in Charlotteville

Our purchase -- all neatly cut into steaks

Dolphins joined us on the trip from Tobago to Trinidad

Most prefered to use the bow wave

The scene as we approach Chagauramas, Trinidad