Savannah to Edenton, NC: June 8 - 29, 2006

And we're off again.......

We finally got our potable water pump problem resolved. We also purchased a spare pump so we won't be tied to a dock again because of lack of water.  Even though we had problems with the HeadHunter pump, we still think it is a good pump and will stick with it.  The first problem was the pump occasionally believing it was running dry.   After a lot of troubleshooting, we exchanged the pump for a new one.  When installing the new pump Chuck screwed our old brass hose barb into a plastic fitting in the pump.  He later discovered the plastic fitting was cracked (and of course it leaked).  The only thing we could think is that it cracked when he screwed in the brass hose barb or it cracked after being tested by HeadHunter.  Anyway, they sent us another pump (and our new spare) with some plastic hose barbs, so we are all set.  

On our last night at Delegal Creek Marina, we went out for sushi with the couple from a neighboring vessel -- Bill and Peggy.  They are currently living on their boat at the marina but also own a house at The Landings (and another near Annapolis.)  On the way back from dinner they gave us a tour of the many facilities at The Landings.  We were especially impressed with the exercise facilities.  We occasionally consider where we might settle down when we stop our cruising life (which Chuck thinks will be in ten or fifteen years), and think The Landings might be a good place.  Who knows what changes might happen by the time we swallow the anchor, though.

We left Savannah on Thursday, June 8th, and made it to Beaufort, SC where we hung out for a couple of days.  Beaufort has always been one of our favorite places to stop.  Chuck got in a number of good runs and Barb explored the town.  We also got a chance to talk to Cole on Empress as he was cruising through on his way up north to put Empress up for sale.  How sad as she is such a beautiful boat.

We got a chance to use our new bow roller for the first time and Barb was ecstatic!  She does the anchoring and no longer has to pull the 110 lb Bruce anchor up the last foot when weighing anchor.  (The new Bruce anchor installed last November was too big to fit all the way up the old anchor roller in the direction being pulled by the windlass.)   Last December we ordered the bow roller that is being installed on all the new Krogen yachts.  We picked the bow roller up in April when we returned from the Bahamas nd had it installed while in Savannah.

After a couple of days of cruising out of Beaufort, we ended up stopping at Barefoot Landing in Myrtle Beach and were pleased to discover that they indeed have improved the dock situation there.  They have replaced the dock on the south end, added water and power to the docks, and charge only $1.25 per foot per night which includes water and power.  We also discovered free wi-fi and a courtesy car at the marina.  What a deal!   The Barefoot Landing Marina is so convenient to everything.  The only negative to the place is that we are on display to the many tourists at this resort area since they come down to the docks all day long and gawk at the boaters.   We've met a lot of nice folks there though.

While Chuck is out running, Barb has taken to riding her new folding bike at every opportunity.  She loves it!

With Tropical Storm Alberto coming up the coast, we stayed at Barefoot Landing until the storm passed.  It was a real non-event for that area. 

From Barefoot Landing we proceeded up the ditch to South Harbor Village Marina, near Southport, where we were joined by Pat and Tom (of Patricia K) for a delicious dinner at Joseph's Bistro.   We left early the next morning, 6/16/2006, with the intention of stopping at Mile Hammock, north of Wrightsville.   But we miscalculated, using the tide tables instead of the current predictions, and so fought the current for most of the day.  Already frustrated as we approached Wrightsville, we learned we would have to wait almost an hour for the bridge to open.  Heck with that.   So we popped out at Masonboro Inlet and made a beeline for Cape Lookout, arriving at 7:10 pm, after a one-hundred-and-seven-statute-mile day.   What a pleasant anchorage!   We had anchored there last year too, and it was just as good the second time around.   Cruisers, if you've never been, please consider a visit.  As we left the next morning we spied four of the wild horses walking along the north shore of Shackelford Island.

Next stop was Oriental, where we anchored up the creek on the west side of the bridge.  We just cannot get used to the practice of anchoring in the tiny harbor, right in front of the approach to the two marinas, inside the breakwater at the south end of Oriental.  Doesn't bother everyone, however, as the little harbor was packed.  Enjoyed drinks with Jim and Janet aboard their Krogen Whaleback Two Drifters, and also enjoyed revisiting the independent marine store.

During this time period we learned that Barb's father had had a mild stroke and had been hospitalized.  He subsequently had a stent placed into his carotid artery.  Nine of Barb's siblings were there for the surgery -- which went well.  Unfortunately, Barb's mother also got sick so Barb flew out to Las Vegas on June 18th to spend a week helping them out.  She went expecting and hoping to spend quality time with them. 

We also learned that Chuck's mother was admitted to hospital with pneumonia.  She had had a cough for some time and had gotten so gradually weak that she hadn't realized she was ill.  Fortunately, the miracle of modern drugs helped her recover.  She was released from the hospital on the same day as Barb's dad and is staying with Zona, Chuck's sister, during her recovery.  She is still somewhat weak, but is on the road to full recovery.

We selected New Bern, NC as the place to leave the boat for the week of Barb's absence.  The Sheraton Hotel and Marina in New Bern were ideal for us.  The airport is five minutes from the marina and the hotel/marina provides a shuttle to the airport on request.  Chuck was able to use the workout facilities of the hotel during his week there, and he also made great progress on knocking out most of a long list of boat projects that week.

With Barb's return on Saturday, June 24, (rejoicing at how well the visit had gone) we were once again in mobile mode.  With reservations in Manteo, NC, for the weekend of the Fourth, where we were to be joined by daughter Nellie and her two sprouts, we had just enough time to divert up the "wrong" direction in Albemarle Sound to see Edenton and friends Jacki and Roger, former owners of Goin' South, now named Sweet Pea by her new owners.  Edenton is a charming, cruiser-friendly little village.  The first capital of North Carolina, the place has a lot of history.  And the Town Docks are a delight.  Free dockage for the first 48 hours, and a rate of only $1 per foot after that.  Guidebooks not withstanding, both 30 and 50 amp power available.   Guidebooks not withstanding, the docks are fixed, not floating.   The slips are somewhat narrow -- only one looked wide enough for our beamy North Sea -- but the face dock can be used, and the power/water pedestals are close enough to be reached.   The new breakwater did an admiral job of protecting us from what otherwise would have been very rough conditions raised by the strong southerly winds that informed our visit.  The dockmaster spoke of weekends during which the facility is totally full, but when we arrived on a week day in very nasty weather, we had the place to ourselves.   (A sailboat later joined us.)

We very much enjoyed our visits (and meals) with Jacki and Roger.  Their home is a dream, and they are some of the most friendly, urbane, bright people we know.

Tusen Takk alone at Edenton Town Docks

Lovely waterfront at Edenton docks


Dinner at Roger and Jacki's - adding the finishing touches to our dessert of Creme Brulee

Local artist and new-Krogen-owner Robin